Friday, January 30, 2009

S'09: Couture Christians

Christian Dior: So his ready-to-wear show was pretty lackluster. We can accept this and move forward.
Let me start by asking you, isn't this the type of life you wished you lived?Just insane hair, toast munching, phone chattering life? That was backstage at Christian Dior.
Okay now what, for the love of succulent baby Jesus, is going on here?????? Trussed up-furry-hair-croissant is the best English approximation I can come up with. It's- just- wow. And there's no way to prepare you for the next image. I'm just going to fling it yon-ward ho!:OQIehOEFHHE;HG???? OIHDOeihgqheog.

Yeah.
And that is merely the beginning. The color palette is exquisite. The silhouettes are classic Dior insan-itude (which is like attitude plus insane).


After some of the fug that was ready-to-wear, you'll feel like you were trying to fight a war in Russia. Your men were outnumbered, the Russians had better weapons, and most of all, the fashion landscape was unforgiving, not cut out for real people.
The cold was seeping into your bones and very heart.


Cut your losses and give that up baby. Step into the light. This is couture. This is art. This is the reason you care about fashion.

First of all, yes. That is the exact life I want to be living. And I'm going to claw it out of her pale, undernourished hands. Maybe I'll let her keep the toast.

Also, wouldn't that make us fashion Nazis in that Russian scenario?

In other news, I loved this show. This was probably my favorite Dior since their Spring 08 couture show (which might be my favorite couture show ever). Galliano pretty much always has inventive silhouettes, but this is one of his most successful marriages of New Look Dior and outside influences:
http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/S2009CTR/CDIOR/RUNWAY/00010m.jpghttp://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/S2009CTR/CDIOR/RUNWAY/00090m.jpghttp://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/S2009CTR/CDIOR/RUNWAY/00150m.jpghttp://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/S2009CTR/CDIOR/RUNWAY/00180m.jpg
And I'm also delighted and surprised that he held back on the detailing, letting them function more as graceful accents than as statements of their own (and as much as I love Galliano's embellishments, they're never really what you might call delicate).
Christian Dior Spring 2009 CoutureChristian Dior Spring 2009 CoutureChristian Dior Spring 2009 Couture
The one lamentable thing about the subtlety of the detailing is that it resulted in not-great detail shots. Maybe then the trussed-up kielbasa hair thing would fit in more with the looks as a whole than as a period detail. But that shit's just lip service, baby. When the final gowns came out, I was all eyes.
http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/S2009CTR/CDIOR/RUNWAY/00280m.jpghttp://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/S2009CTR/CDIOR/RUNWAY/00380m.jpghttp://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/S2009CTR/CDIOR/RUNWAY/00340m.jpghttp://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/S2009CTR/CDIOR/RUNWAY/00370m.jpghttp://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/S2009CTR/CDIOR/RUNWAY/00320m.jpg
STATUS: You're my number one guy, Galliano. Dolly, don't ever go away again!

Christian Lacroix All the girls wear these humongous door-knocker earrings encrusted with jewels. Other than that, I pretty much was not into this show tatall. Maybe I'm not sophisticated or something, but I think it's just ugly.

I'll grant you, Lacroix's first few looks did nothing for me.

Christian Lacroix Spring 2009 Couture

What in the hell are you doing to our Chanel? She's not some toy for you to splash your Starlight Express fantasies on! And this

Christian Lacroix Spring 2009 Couture

looks like Reebok by Lacroix. But I didn't hate this collection. Granted, some of it is kind of hideous...

http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/S2009CTR/CLACROIX/RUNWAY/00190m.jpghttp://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/S2009CTR/CLACROIX/RUNWAY/00100m.jpghttp://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/S2009CTR/CLACROIX/RUNWAY/00220m.jpghttp://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/S2009CTR/CLACROIX/RUNWAY/00210m.jpg

...and some more of it is also pretty hideous...


http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/S2009CTR/CLACROIX/RUNWAY/00240m.jpghttp://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/S2009CTR/CLACROIX/RUNWAY/00250m.jpghttp://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/S2009CTR/CLACROIX/RUNWAY/00320m.jpghttp://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/S2009CTR/CLACROIX/RUNWAY/00350m.jpg

...the show (brief interruption: I love the facial expressions of the woman on the left. What a roller coaster ride this must be for her) still had its fair share of pearls.


http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/S2009CTR/CLACROIX/RUNWAY/00050m.jpg

Do you remember when the costume designer from Marie-Antoinette won the Oscar and she totally looked like Oscar Wilde and it was totally delightful? I loved that look then and I love it still.

http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/S2009CTR/CLACROIX/RUNWAY/00200m.jpghttp://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/S2009CTR/CLACROIX/RUNWAY/00060m.jpghttp://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/S2009CTR/CLACROIX/RUNWAY/00090m.jpg

If you don't find these charming, maybe you're in the wrong business, toots. And THESE?

http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/S2009CTR/CLACROIX/RUNWAY/00290m.jpghttp://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/S2009CTR/CLACROIX/RUNWAY/00370m.jpghttp://www.style.com/slideshows/fashionshows/S2009CTR/CLACROIX/RUNWAY/00380m.jpg
STATUS: Maybe you were never sophisticated, Lush. Maybe that was all just a fever dream. The cream always rises to the top, but you stuck down there with the curds. And they stank.

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