Abaeté - I think you'll really like this - it's smart and accessible streetwear, for the most part. The review mentions a postrevolutionary France influence, but it's handled with a pretty subdued touch; it remains a very winning and modern show.
Plus, it's pretty short, which is always nice.
Lush:
I totally agree with you AcidQ about preferring the fall to the spring collections. Let's turn this mother out!
You are so right -- this is chock full of stuff I'd love to own. I felt that the complete 27 looks was a complete wardrobe for one woman, containing basically everything she would ever need to wear (except a swimsuit- this ain't spring as we just said.) The looks were basic, but not too boring -- kind of like the Legos of a woman's closet.
Status: Well done! Bravo!
Yigal Azrouël - Are you pissed at the world? Swing on by Yigal Azrouël! This is a collection for thieves and shitkickers who'd like to be famous, who like a mixture of modern grunge - lots of heavy gray knits - and kind of unflattering silhouettes. In sum, hipster wear. I'm kind of half-and-half on it, but it's short and the pieces are well-constructed, so it's worth a glance.
Lush:
I see you are being klassy with a "k" and alphabetizing things the adult (rather than style.com) way, giving last names heed over first. Isn't that a fun last name? Azrouel? With an umlaut? Woo. Anyway, the clothes.
This is cute but there's no flair to it. Pretty much like the whole show. They were very New York clothes, but not in any special way. Kind of reminded of stuff you can find at H&M.
Status: Harrumph! I liked it even less than you I think, and I didn't lookbook a thing. Not one.
BCBG Max Azria - Aww, here it go. Do you remember that challenge from the first season of Project Runway when they had to imagine style in the future using deconstructed vintage clothes? This show is similarly themed; part of it is kind of matte and hunchy...
part is metallic and hunchy...
and the rest are fairly traditionally-made dresses with interesting color effects.
I liked it more than I usually like BCBG, though it's a tad long.
Lush:
I'm not quite certain I grasp what you mean by "hunchy" unless it's kind of "hunched over." While this isn't:
The clothes you had to show certainly were. I have to say, again, not that into it. BCBG, I'm just not that into you. (It had to be said) I especially think the metallic tights were a poor choice for styling: what, did you think you were Balenciaga? A far cry from it, in fact.
Status: No, thanks.
Rachel Comey - You know how nobody (and I mean nobody) likes the gangly awkward girl?
Yeah. And this show is not without its charms...
But still.
Lush:
Rachel Comey might want to reconsider naming her line Ganglasaurus Rex. Or possibly Layerama. Save this kind of drama for the Dalai Lama:
Like, those shorts? Hey, wha happen?
Status: HAIL no. The only two I even liked you showcased above in your section.
Christian Cota - This is an extremely short show that I was extremely not into in the beginning.
But I have to say, it eventually won me over. Once it moves into more flattering silhouettes, the construction and detailing really sing!
Lush:
So, this is the second look in:
You don't think that's cool lookin'? Kind of a shimmery plate tectonics theme? I agree your exhibits A and B are quite ugly. I'd love to know what this skirt is made out of:
Could it really be the laser-y sequin-y material it appears? In any case, I'd love a closer look. Some of this show reminded me a spackled jawbreaker, and that's good.
Status: There's something here definitely.
Costello Tagliapietra - Y'know, I really liked this show. It maintains a balance between understatedness and glamour that works really well for ready to wear.
Also, come on.
What charmers.
Lush:
Okay so I liked the looks you showcased, those extended elbows look cool, and sure they're a cute couple. But I have to say,
Status: Underwhelming
--- ---This is actually a good chance to insert a comment on the fact that one of the models (appearing in this and many other shows) has the name "Daiane." It reminds me of a flyer for a sublet I saw in a bathroom stall on which somebody's name was something like "Lacey Grejazjslblslski" and another person had written in "Damn, girl. Get some vowels!" Well, to this "Daiane," I'd like to say, "Damn, girl. Can I get a consonant?" That's all.--- ---
Cushnie et Ochs - Well, there's this:
But the rest...if I may borrow a phrase from my esteemed colleagues at Men on Film: hated it!
Lush:
Uh oh, if you hated it, I'm sure in for some fun. Not.
(really, people are still using the "not" comeback. I'm serious.)
So, "If it was a bit repetitive, that was likely intentional: The pair said they'd been influenced by concepts of mass production, spurred on by a photo of a German Volkswagen factory. The palette was as sober as an assembly line." is what style has to say about it. Now really, this could be a great concept if done right. It could also be rote and boring, which is what has happened here. And it's also trying so very hard to be sexy and that never works: you find a misplaced tit here, a supershort hemline there, and general tightness running rampant.
Status: I applaud the attempt but that doesn't mean it is good in any way.
Davidelfin - I'm gonna say...no. According to the review, though, the designer has some connection with the new Almodóvar film coming out this year, so I guess it might be of interest for that. And for that only.
Lush:
Another reason Davidelfin might hold a small interest is the name itself. Say it out loud. How do you think it's meant to be said? Kinda fun, no? Oh, what a mishmash t'was though. I mean, there was a uniform use of colors and material, so it flowed from one look to the next. But what I didn't understand was...anything deeper than that. It reminded me of 34 outfits in search of an exit. They just don't seem to ...be...good? And, is this a woman?
Thinking back on it, I think a common tie was "clothes you'd murder in. And not because you look so good people will die, but because you're actually psycho." Coming from someone who looks like this:
It's not so hard to see why now. The glint of madness is definitely written plainly there. Don't picture him before bed, okay?
Status: I agree with you.
Nicole Miller - A pretty typical showing here; she has a sort of spiderweb motif at the beginning, but it gets dropped pretty quickly in exchange for more plain-looking wearables. This one gets an overall meh, but it's not awful.
Lush:
When I think of this line the word "commercial" is pretty much the law. Like, I'm sure this is a nice LBD to own:
But could we snore any louder, really? We are living in an economic recession. If a dress is going to cost more than a hundred dollars, it better be hitting the "exquisite" end of the spectrum.
And let me tell you something else. Even though I may be a vegetarian, I actually DO understand fur and skins in fashion. They're exotic, they can be erotic for some, they come from living things. Every skin or fur you could wear is unique because it came from a different animal (or several- chinchilla capelet, anyone?)
That's freaking weird and titillating in the way the fashion world loves things to be weird and exciting.
Now, I'm not saying I approve of it -- far from it if you're asking. If I had my way, we'd only be seeing fake fur and skins in these collections. But that's not how it is right now, and I at least understand why.
That caveat aside, what is up with some of the leather jackets? I've seen them in several shows and they don't fit well and they look hideous. (end of rant. FOR NOW)
Status: Girls will buy and wear Nicole Miller, but me and you won't be among them.
Rag & Bone - Naw. It's like, "SPORTSWEAR!" in a dour and not terribly exciting way. It does have a lot of name models in it, though.
Lush:
Rag & Bone is an interesting choice of words to call your line since it feels earthy and common, perhaps one of these "mass appeal" schemes? Like, hey! I've got some bones! Maybe I can look good in those rags too! Okay, first, let's turn to this frontrow look:
Anna Wintour does NOT like to be made to wait, it seems. Also, is she wearing ...an entirely Fall palette there? Doesn't she realize it's not fall outside the tents yet? Finally, don't we recognize that ensemble from a Fall RTW '08 collection? I couldn't say which one...but definitely NOT Rag & Bone...curious, indeed.
Turning to the runway, I didn't mind this :
Until I noticed that funky right (model's left) sleeve. What's up with that? You're right about it being dour, too - especially the male models.
Status: Yeah, NAW.
Charlotte Ronson - Yes, Sammy's twin sister. Apart from a couple of bright spots...
I am not so into it. Sorry, Linds. Way too much inappropriate plaid.
And also, what is the deal with that last bitch?
Lush:
Oh how I wish I could skip this. There's so much about Lindsay Lohan I just want to keep away from, you know? But of course I had to look at this one. I do like this look:
Kind of mannish and edgy, but not too kah-razee. You summed up the rest pretty well, though I don't really like the first look you used mostly due to the model's face. I felt the raison d'etre for this show was lesbian valuworld girl wants to be an eighties punk. M I RITE? Oh, my.And let's not even discuss how she unsuccessfully tried to mutate her initials into the shape of a heart for her logo.
Status: Oh, sigh, I guess it was passable.
Shipley & Halmos - Ugh. The pieces that aren't unflattering are very plain. Also, a lot of it is either gray or dusky rose, a color I find better suited for carpets than clothing.
Lush:
So, we kinda been hatin' a lot up in here, and it's only day one. But gad damn. Why oh why would two designers think 42 looks of THIS would be acceptable?
Status: INappropriate for LIFE.
Stærk - The Style review mentions that this collection was inspired by the photography of Robert Mapplethorpe, and the influence shows in the attitude of the clothing.
In the end, I wasn't that into it, but I appreciate the show for its effort and its brevity. Also:
ANTM's Fatima! You know, the circumcised one!
Lush:
That's coolio for Fatima. And I won't comment on the fact that a lot of them are wearing stirrup leggings (well, that itself was a comment but whatever.) Huzzah for editing it down to the best!
Status: Alright! Phew!
Barbara Tfank - Mreh. Traditional to the point of being almost staid. Which isn't to say that it was ugly - it wasn't - but it was guilty of being boring. Quite short, though, so maybe worth a spin.
Lush:
I think perhaps we're just jaded. RTW might be a let-down when we take so long to write our blog it follows nipping at the heels of couture. Come on, there was TAD of elegance here:
No? Well, I seem to like this collection more than you. Can't say I like the bridesmaidsy dyed-to-match shoes of some of them, but they're not as "staid" as you say, I think.
Jason Wu - Designer of Michelle Obama's inauguration ball dress (the one-shouldered one. You know.) This show was a delight - it takes the gray tweedy feel a lot of the fall shows have had into charmingly unexpected places:
It goes off the rails a few times, but it doesn't harm the show. This is a very fresh show with something for every demographic - even (especially?) drag queens.
Lush:
Well finally. Something we both actually like!
Status: very verray nice!
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